Fire at Will likes to bill itself as an elevated kind of neighborhood restaurant—a place people seemingly from the area will go to multiple times a month and “order the regular.” Truthfully, I don’t see it. Like its sister restaurant, Hush Public House, Fire at Will seems a little too special… a little too important, at least per Phoenix standards.

The dream of the original version of Pa’La is alive in Gilbert. Well, close. Claudio Urciuoli isn’t stoically toiling away in the kitchen every moment of every day, but the place is definitely his. There are (nice) paper plates. There are ingredients straight from the Mediterranean. Everything is simple, but somehow better than you ever think it well be. And there’s wine. Lots of wine.